Cars & Vehicles
Information about all types of vehicles; including cars and trucks manufactured around the world, motorcycles, airplanes,and other modes of transportation, is found here. If you need to know the best truck for off-road use, how to make a vehicle sound like it has more power than it really does, if filling up a gas tank when it s half full is really beneficial, or anything concerning vehicles, this is the place to ask!
What qualifications and licensing are required to become a vehicle repossession agent?
This depends on where you live. In Florida and California, you have to be certified by the state. State permit etc. Other states, mostly wide open. It's NOT a very regulated industry yet. In California you must be employed by an agency that is already licensed by the state. You must then be registered as a repossessor employee for at least two years before you can qualify to take the state test to become a qualified manager. All agencies must have a qualified manager for each office. In Pennsylvania, you contact the Pennsylvania Department of Banking for an application for Licensure Collector-Repossessor. License is required under Title 69 section 601. You have to file an application with a bond of $5,000, a $350 license fee, and fingerprints for a criminal history check. The annual renewal fee $250. The license is issued under the Motor Vehicle Sales Finance Act. Records are required to be maintain on business of collecting payments or installment sale contracts or repossessing motor vehicles. More details are in the Motor Vehicle Sales Finance Act. In Maryland contact Maryland Motor Vehicle Administration, 6601 Ritchie Hwy. N.E., Glen Burnie, Maryland 21062. Tel:(410)768-7000. In Alabama, Tennessee, Georgia, and Miss., all you need to do is notify the police after the repo has taken place, you do not want Bubba runing you down. You need to treat the people with the same respect that would yourslf, BS and finesse run the course when you are skipping someone. As for a truck you dont need it. I used the uHaul to pick up front wheel cars. Keep in mind you need to get a locksmith fast because the lender is paying for it. In Washington State you do not have to be certified. (Surprising, considering how over regulated everything else here is.) The best advice I've heard is: DO NOT GET CAUGHT BEING UNDER-INSURED. These people are usually hot! And they will try and nail you any way possible, you will certainly find yourself defending your actions in front of a judge sooner or later. Know the law and cover your #$%! Answer Read the article on Repoman.com entitled "I wanna be a Repoman!" IMHO, it should be REQUIRED reading for anyone with the desire to be a repoman. Here are a few laws you might want to get familiar with if you wanna be a REAL recovery agent, in Oklahoma: http://www.lsb.state.ok.us/ Title 13. Common Carriers (179KB) Title 14A. Consumer Credit Code (805KB) Title 15. Contracts (777KB) Title 12A. Commercial Code (2095KB) Title 24. Debtor and Creditor (153KB) Title 28. Fees (179KB) Title 40. Labor (1200KB) Title 42. Liens (269KB) Title 47. Motor Vehicles (3472KB) Title 59. Professions and Occupations (3332KB) Title 60. Property (1225KB) Title 72. Soldiers and Sailors (315KB) Answer The smartest way to get in the business is starting to work for another company. There are many laws and regulations that very from state to state, and if you are getting into it with no experience, chances are good you won?t last. Work a few years for a local repo company as a driver, and as you learn what you need to do, it will be a lot easier to start your own company. Everyone on here that is wanting to repo cars, yea you can go get your license, get your bond, but the big question is, where are you going to get the finance companies that will give you accounts? You need to know what you are doing before you get into this business. Answer I would have to agree with the previous answer. There are many ways to get into the repo industry. Yet, once you get there, how do you succeed? Go work for another company. Find one in your area, get a truck, get a boom, and learn how to get into cars. Learn how to go without sleep and how to work for 14-18 hours straight. The job is a fun one at times, while at others you want to shoot yourself for getting involved. It's not a job that you can do half way... it's one that is all or nothing. TLC and other shows have made it look fun and somewhat glamorous with titles like "Stealing for a Living". I have never stolen anything in my life. I recover what others are stealing from lien holders and financial lenders. Rethink your decision and if you are serious, contact a local repo agency and see if any of their agents need drivers and go from there. Answer I AGREE WITH THE PREVIOUS STATEMENT I AM 22 YEARS OLD AND HAVE BEEN WORKING THE COLLATERAL RECOVERY INDUSTRY SINCE I WAS 16. IN THAT TIME I HAVE SEEN MORE THAN 100 AGENTS COME AND GO FROM THE TWO COMPANYS I HAVE WORKED FOR....THE REPOSSESSION INDUSTRY TAKES A CERTAIN BREED TO SUCEED NOT JUST ANYBODY CAN DO IT.! Answer All those answers are..for the most part correct! I am a female repossessor living in Valencia. I have been doing this for over 7 years and am now thinking about starting a repo business of my own. But from experience, i KNOW that most people who think they can start a repo business FAIL. Because they don't do it ....first hand....before they try and start the company. You need people you can trust to recover collateral and most of all, you need to have referrals from the lienholders. I myself, am lucky in that sense because many finance companies know who I am and know I am a great skip tracer, which results in reoovery! So if you're gonna try this, be a repo agent first! It's not as easy as you might except, especially if you're in California, as I am...where the consumer laws are much more strict that other states! Answer My answer...................DON'T DO IT. Now that I have your attention, i will get right to the facts. Anyone can start a repo company. I am on my 3rd one now.It takes trust in at least one other person. The kind of trust that comes from knowing someone a while. Then it takes trusting yourself. Are you the kind of person that can go for hours while watching a home and waiting for someone who may or may not show up? Long hours in a thankless job. Know yourself and your partners before you start. Anyone can drive a wrecker and operate a boom. But make sure you have what it takes to be a real repo man (or woman) before you sink your time and money into it. Like i said, until you are sure, DON'T DO IT..... Answer The previous answer is pretty much how it is. I went on vacation recently and just so happened had info that one of the cars that I was looking for might be in my vacation spot, so it ended up being a working vacation with a family that was very upset with me...but I did find the car. :-) Answer I think the best step would be to apply for the job.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Air Pollution
How do you get rid of cigarette smoke from air conditioning?
How should you 'break-in' a new car?
Breaking-In a New Car Most manufacturers have recommendations in the handbooks. You should start off treating the engine very gently i.e. gentle revs and never more than 1/4 throttle. Over time you gradually use more revs and more throttle until you eventually end up using the full range of the engine. It is important to eventually end up using all the power and rev range to wear harden various parts. It is also important that you do not keep to a single continuous speed or gear but vary your speed quite a bit during this time (a long highway journey is NOT a good break in if you just sit in top gear at a continuous speed). This is because things are still hardening up and you can wear a groove into them. Modern engines break in relatively quickly, often 1000km, older designs took longer as the tolerances were not as precise. The first oil change is often a lot sooner than later ones as during break in rough edges from manufacturing will be worn off and end up in the oil. Here is more advice from various contributors: Drive it gently. General rule is not to exceed 3000 - 3500 rpm. for the first 500 miles. It is also a good idea to be kind to it for the first 2000 miles. "Breaking in" your cars engine is an old myth, it is also bull. Rule #1 if you want your engine to last a long time, treat it gentle all the time, not just for the first 1000km. Break in is important. All engine bearings and cylinders, etc. must wear evenly and proper. Also, piston rings need to seat. Have you ever seen a new engine burn oil until it breaks in? Some piston ring take up to 5000 miles to fully seat or wear evenly to cylinder bore. Not following proper break in procedures could result in premature engine/parts failure. This depends whether you purchase or lease a car. With a purchase you should break a car in for the reasons and using the methods described before, ignoring the one comment about it being bull. If the vehicle is a lease you may skip the break-in period if you so wish. Since not breaking-in a car may result in improper wear of parts, or even engine failure, during the warranty period it will be covered, and a leased car will be returned to the dealer before the warranty period expires. You shouldn't just break-in your car if you are buying it. Even if you are leasing it you should. Do the next guy a favor. A very inconsiderate answer man. Besides some people lease it and then decide they like it and want to buy it, so I say, you should break it in anyway. No matter what. If you research on how to break-in a new engine on the web, most sites will tell you a procedure to break-in the piston rings (the only thing that matters). The proper way to break in an engine is to drive at 30 mph and accelerate to 50 mph. Do this to break in the engine the proper way. Do this the first 3000 miles or so. Manufactures are making engines with much higher tolerances today. Where cylinder clearances used to be in the thousands of an inch, now its in the ten thousands. Bores are rounder and straighter. There is know reason to baby a newer engine, it will actually hurt. You need cylinder pressure to drive the rings out onto the bore, which actually shaves the bore into a perfect fit. By babying it the rings will only rub and burnish the surface leaving a less then Ideal finish. So ... keep the revs below 4000 the first 300 miles, then drive it ... accelerate with meaning for the next 2500 miles and your all set. This is how all High Performance engines are broken in, and all engines today can be considered a high performance engine since they pull more power out then there predecessors ever did. Most modern car engines are broken in at the factory, before assembly. Therefore the old tradition of breaking in a new car doesn't apply anymore. Just drive as you normally would drive and treat the car the way you would treat anything else of value.
What are jobs paying over 100000 dollars a year?
In regards to nursing there are a number of specialties that enable one to make 100,000. There are nurse anesthetists which are among the top paid nursing specialty, along with psychiatric APRNS, and sometimes dermatology APRNS. This is dependent though on your area, how much the cost of living is, and the demand of those in the specialty your going for. Some advanced practice nurses not named can easily earn 100,000 but working overnights, weekends and picking up extra shifts as well.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Vehicle Titles, Repossession
How can you find a car by the VIN if you do not know what state it is titled in?
A vin number on a car can tell you a number of things about a car , whether it is a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder, it can tell you about the interior of the car, or the if it is a classic or tire size but im pretty sure that a vin number doesnt have the state of where it is from, my advice to you would be to do a little research about the last owner and start there. trick question,huh? WHO is looking? Cops can do it any time,so you must not be one of those. LOL Do you know the TAG number or what state it is from? Do you know the owners name? If you have a legitimate reason for finding a car, email me and I will try to help you. Go to carfax.com. There is a charge, but it will tell you the last place (City,State) that the vehicle was registrated in THE ABOVE ANSWER IS MISLEADING. AS I DEAL WITH ALL THE STATES TITLE DEPARTMENTS, HERE IS THE ONE TRUTH: NO STATE WILL SUPPLY YOU WITH THE TITLE BECAUSE IT CAN ONLY BE SENT TO THE REGISTERED OWNER. CARFAX WILL TAKE YOUR MONEY $70.00 PLUS AND ONLY PROVIDE YOU WITH NON-GUARANTEED INFO. IT SAYS THIS ON THEIR WEBSITE. THE REASON FOR THIS IS; THE STATES ARE NOT UNDER ANY CONTRACT TO PROVIDE PERSONAL INFORMATION TO THE PUBLIC. GO TO A REGISTERED AUTO LIEN SERVICE. IT HAS TO APPROVED BY THAT PARTICULAR STATE TO OBTAIN THE ABOVE INFORMATION.the only difference will be the emmission to what state the car was build for if you take a look at the federal sticker under the hood , it will say this wad manufactured in such year and the state of california....reason being that california has their own emmissions standards..all other vehicles can be from just any state..a car fax is a reliable source due to the fact that goes back to the registration history it will give you information from day one the car was registered.accidents if they have been reported...keep in mind that if the accident is not reported,there is no way of finding out wheather the car has been in an accident or not..hope the info.was helpful
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Insurance, Auto Insurance
Can you get auto insurance with just a learner's permit?
Auto Insurance Required for Learners Permit? Yes, you can. A Drivers or Learners "Permit" is permission to drive and therefore a temporary license with certain restrictions. You can obtain your own auto insurance or you can be covered under someone else's policy such as your parents or the vehicle owners policy, but you must have coverage. If you are a minor and want your own policy, due to the limitations of contract law your parent or legal guardian will need to countersign your insurance application for it to be legally binding. A Drivers Permit comes with all the responsibilities of anyone licensed or not who operates a motor vehicle on public roads, including our financial responsibility. No state provides exemption from Financial Responsibility Laws for minors or permitted drivers. More Information: You can get insurance with a permit. I live in Florida and got it with a Learners Permit Some Insurance Companies may not require you be added to the vehicle owners or parents policy until you complete your test and get your drivers license, but you can't drive uninsured in any event. It's best to contact your Insurance Company and ask what the policy is for newly permitted drivers.
Asked in Fuel Pumps, Cars & Vehicles
What would a candybar in your gas tank do?
It may eventually clog the fuel filter - about the same effect as if you'd put sand in the tank. It's a myth that sugar will dissolve in gasoline or that it will somehow get past the several filters between the gas tank and the engine and then ruin the entire engine. No, it won't do the damage that you think it may. Sugar will not dissolve in gasoline.40 years ago before the sophisticated fuel systems came along, it was thought that it would load up a engine with gunk but the real only way was to put it directly into the carburetor.
Asked in Rules of the Road, Cars & Vehicles
What is the legal minimum tire tread thickness in California?
1/32 inch (according to driversed.com) From the California Vehicle Code online: (1) One thirty-second (1/32) of an inch tread depth in any two adjacent grooves at any location of the tire, except as provided in paragraphs (2) and (3). (2) Four thirty-second (4/32) of an inch tread depth at all points in all major grooves on a tire on the steering axle of any motor vehicle specified in Section 34500, and two thirty-second (2/32) of an inch tread depth at all points in all major grooves on all other tires on the axles of these vehicles. (3) Six thirty-second (6/32) of an inch tread depth at all points in all major grooves on snow tires used in lieu of tire traction devices in posted tire traction device control areas.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Auto Insurance, Auto Insurance Claims, Tickets Points and Auto Insurance Rates
Can you insure someone else's car?
How do you startup and drive a car that has two brake pedals and a stick shift readout of 1 2 3 4 5 then R as opposed to P R N D 2 then L?
Assorted s from the community: The LEFT pedal is the CLUTCH. It must be depressed to crank the car, then released SLOWLY with the stick in 1 to go. It may take you some practice to get it down, but don't quit. Be careful because as you learn a manual transmission you'll see there are considerable differences in how it runs. When accelerating your release of the clutch should be exactly in sync with applying the gas. Also, be sure not to slow down too quick in 5 or go too fast in reverse because if you do, it can stall the engine and eventually damage your motor heads. Have fun!! If people just try to tell you how to drive a stick, you will never get it, you need to find a friend or anyone who knows how to drive it to show you, if you try to drive it after reading what people have told you in here, you will hit a car or blow the motor, maybe even kill someone. The last person to respond is right. Do not even attempt to drive this car until someone has given you a lesson or ten. The difference between a manual and automatic are vast and in order to make sure that you don't do any damage, to the car,yourself, or others, you must have someone show you and explain to you how everything works. Never drive a vehicle until you are totally comfortable handling it, that's how accidents happen. Just so you have some info though, 1,2,3,4,5, are the gears and R is Reverse, you must alway depress the clutch before shifting gears. The center is the neutral position, you will know you are in it if the stick shift can easily move back and forth, to start the vehicle put the stick in neutral depress the clutch and turn the key then release your foot from the clutch. Always, and I mean always pull up the emergency brake completely in a manual transmission otherwise your car will roll away. To start driving depress the cluth and move the stick into 1st, slowly start releasing the clutch while gently stepping on the gas, each clutch is different so you may stall a few times before you get it right. Change gears when the engine starts to revve higher, you must always step on the clutch when changing gears, ALWAYS otherwise, in time, you will wreck you engine. Some people believe that you always change gears when you are going a certain speed i.e. 0-20km/1st gear, 20-40km/2nd gear, 40-60km/3 gear, 60-80km/4th gear, and 80 plus km/5 gear. You probably won't do much damage if you follow this guide, however, it will definitely be better for your car if you change gears when your engine is revving higher. But please, still get someone who knows what they are doing to teach you how to drive a stick. Good luck. The previous answer is correct. Please have someone show you how to drive this car. Most important is learning how to start up and stop on a hill. This car can be ruined, if the clutch is not applied properly. Basically, the difference between a manual transmission (this car) and an automatic transmission is that in an automatic transmission, the car's mechanics move the different gears for you. In a manual transmission, you move the gears. If you have a 10 speed bike, you can see this happening. The derailer moves the chain from gear to gear on the hub of the bike. start in an empty lot with level ground, no poles HAVE AN EXPERIENCED MANUAL DRIVER SITTING NEXT TO YOU WHILE YOU DO THIS!!!!! At first, try letting the experienced rider steer the car, and let the beginning driver look down at their feet and shifter to get used to the foot and hand synchronization needed to operate the clutch, accelerator, and shifter. Naturally, a very long, wide, empty space is ideal. Watching their own feet and the shifter positions, while I steered from the passenger seat, was a real short-cut for my daughters. release the clutch super slowly until u get used to the distance it needs to be released to start moving the car then slowly accelerate while moving ur foot off the clutch just as slow, just do this repeatedly until u have start-ups down....DO NOT do shifting at all in ur first lesson, just start driving the car in 1 then hit the clutch and brake and come to a complete stop...then do it again, and again and again until the car does not kick or jerk or bog wen u start driving then to do the shifting part u need a longer stretch of road, so i suggest getting up early on a Saturday morning and just finding a remote street where there are few buildings or things that attract traffic. for this make sure u have a lot of space because when shifting u want to shift at 3000-4000 rpm and for this initially u will need to look down at the rev meter and u don't want to hit something or someone while doing this but eventually you will learn how your car sounds and when it needs a shift...good luck have fun be safe don't do anything stupid ANSWER I have no idea what P R N D 2 L means but i do know about manual transmission because cars in my country have manual transmission like 95% cars must be manual transmission. Others answers cover most of the things and but just wanted to add something.DONT take your foot off the clutch pedal in 1st & 2nd gears and change gears when your cars engine starts revving up,revving up speeds are different for different cars but if still you want to change gears according to speed then 0-10km/hr 1st gear,10-20km/hr 2nd gear,20-40km/hr 3rd gear,40-60 km/hr 4rth gear and 60-uuuummmmmm km/hr 5th gear. As this question has been answered to the full there is one thing I would like to correct. A manual transmission can be started without pressing the clutch. Just don't but it in gear. Otherwise the tips are all very good. Comment: Many cars with manual transmissions are now interlocked to require clutch pedal depression while starting engine. This prevents the "jump forward on starting" problem if left in gear. All cars with auto transmissions are now interlocked to require the P park selection to allow starting, for the same reason. ANSWER If u passed your test in a automatic car u can only drive them by law in the UK but if you pass in a manual you can drive both .this is because any body can drive an automatic its simple point and steer. Last person she didn't say she was in the UK so what are u talking about? Also, don't try to drive it without the clutch pedal that's just dumb. All others advice is correct have someone show you. And how do you know it was a "she" and what country they are in? That UK law is also true in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland and many other places that speak English. If you got your licence, check it. If it tells you you can only drive a automatic you will not know what a clutch is. A clutch is the far left pedal and is used for changing gears ( the big lever with the knob which tells you what gear you're in (eg 1 is top left, 3 is top middle and 6 (if you have a sixth gear car) is bottom right. This one sent me for a loop too, but at least she came her to ask the question. Honey, listen to those who tried to steer you in the right direction by explaining things to you and ignore the morons who left smart-assed answers. These are the same idiots who cause accidents. If you don't know the difference between an automatic and a stick shift go talk to your local driving school and for a few bucks they'll teach you how to drive a stick. I learned the hard way in an MG riding through midtown Manhattan, NYC. by myself and figured it out without killing anybody or damaging the car. I went on to become an accomplished Drag Racer and now I own a limo company.Carry on and good luck. As for the knucklehead who answered ahead of me, I hope YOU live FAR, FAR away from me! Like on another continent...or planet! Keep on Truckin' Baby! LOL! It's good you have the knowledge to know you're in over your head with this. Yes this is a manual transmission. Yes the left peddle is the clutch. The term clutch means to disengage the drive train to change gears. When you depress the clutch pedal, you have just stopped the engine from moving the car, hence the engine speeding up, and the car slowing down. When you depress the clutch pedal, you also have to release the accelerator (gas pedal) at the same time. If you know someone who drives a semi truck for a living, they can teach you tricks that the driving school has NEVER ran acorss. For the time being here is an exercise that will get you used to using the clutch, brake and accelerator. I a vacant open parking lot that is flat, or a long drive that is flat, and when I say long I mean at least half the distance of a football field without ditches on either side is a good idea also, however I still like a vacant parking lot. Place the car in neutral. You can tell neutral because the gear shifts will move excessive side to side. Without the engine running shift through the shift pattern a few time to get the feel of how the shifter feels when going into gear. Mostly work on 1 and R. Once you feel the shifter actually engage the gear, there will be a slight resistance to the shifter as you move it into the gear position. Find 1 and shift into the gear, then find R and shift into that gear. Do this until you feel comfortable moving from gear to gear. As you cross the neutral gate, there will be a slight bump, followed by another but different bump. The first bump is the neutral gate, and the second bump is the gear being selected. When you feel comfortable, make sure the parking brake is set, and start the engine. Wait for the engine to warm up keep the radio off because you will need to hear the engine, and if there is a tachometer showing RPM this is the engine speed. I highly suggest you start out going forward, so select 1. Now we come to the usage of the feet. The left foot is for the clutch only. You have to switch between the gas and brake with the right foot. You might want to practice this also. To stop a manual shift, you have to push the clutch in all the way to the floor, while applying your right foot to the brake. Now place your right foot on the brake and left foot on the clutch pressing the clutch all the way to the floor and hold it there. Release the parking brake. Always start at 1 and shift progressively through 2, 3, 4, and 5. Right now just concentrate on 1 and R! Once you have the gear shift in the 1 position, slowly let the clutch pedal up until you hear the engine start to slow, now let off the brake and genially apply some gas. If you apply too much gas the car will launch forward, not enough and the engine will stall, its ok start the engine again, and try again. Once you get a smooth takeoff, stop! Find Reverse and do the same thing. The car should not jump or bump or screech the tires. It should be a smooth take off and stop. Practice this until you can start moving smoothly every time! Please find a truck driver to show you how to up shift and down shift.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles
What car does birdman drive?
Well batman drives the bat mobile so I would assume that birdman would drive a bird mobile. Now from the picture it would apear that the birdmobile is a jeep. I don't think bird man would be driving an all electric car. Out in birdland you don't find that many charging stations. Heck you are lucky if they even have electricity out there.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Car Buying
What car has the most comfortable passenger seat?
There are many opinions about which cars have the most comfortable seats. Here are some opinions from the community: I would recommend tha Cadillac Seville. Volvo has the most comfortable seats I've sat in. Our Volvos are nine and ten years old each and the seats are still extremely comfortable. Lincolns and Cadillacs float down the road and have seats that were as comfortable as any Fine Couch or Leather Chair in your living room. A more economical choice for car comfort: the Buick Century. I drive the Buick on all long distance trips. "Comfortable" is the most often used adjective I hear from people who have rented the Buick Century on vacation. You can buy custom seats for almost any car and have those fitted instead of the manufacturers seat. This is rare in the US, more common in Europe. When you sell the car you can take the seat out and replace with the original. Recaro is one make I know of. Some of these special seats have inflatable lumbar support, lateral thigh support etc. Against intuition the soft seats are usually not as good for long term comfort as a firm, supportive seat. Another alternative, much cheaper is to buy a seat insert (I'm not sure what they are properly called??) that fits on the current seat and provides firmer seating, usually ventilation - and depending on model good lumbar and sideways support. Trucking web sites also have good info - those guys live in their seats and have to have the best. There are many cars with "comfortable" seats out there but if you want the one make that stands out in my mind as head and shoulders above the rest, it is Saab. It is the only car I have ever driven where I would consider having its seats in my living room. Buick LaSabre has always been our choice for comfort. Audi S8 series.
What is the length of time creditors have to file for a claim against you after repossession in Pennsylvania?
How can you find out the salvage value of a totaled car?
You can call some salvage or wrecking yards in your area and ask what they are willing to pay you for the totaled car. It is best to call several wrecking yards and then average the price they offer you. A reasonable estimate is 15-20% of the retail value of the vehicle at the time of loss. Keep in mind that a vehicle totaled due to front end damage will have a lower salvage value than the same vehicle totaled due to a rear impact. A salvage yard will often pay you more than a scrap yard. It just depends on how badly damaged the vehicle is and what parts may be reusable. Salvage yards attempt to salvage usable parts that can be resold as is to body shops, mechanics and individuals and then the remainder is crushed and sold to be melted down. A scrap yard will generally only offer you based on the weight of the metal because they are just going to crush it all down to be sold as raw metal for recycle. All insurance companies have different formulas and conditions for paying out on a total loss. For instance, I know of a few companies in Illinois that will formulate a value at time of loss based on the following factors: car's condition before the accident, current blue book value, current dealer re-sale prices, current salvage values, and current newspaper listing prices. Taking all these sources of info into consideration, it is difficult to say the least to compose a salvage value, until the actual time of loss, and after an adjuster examines the damaged vehicle. There are some insurance companies out there that will not do what is right toward you, but the right companies will be fair and reasonable to you. For instance, I know that The Hartford asks you what the condition of your car was prior to the accident, the adjuster who goes out to look at the vehicle looks at any prior damage on the vehicle and any mechanical malfunctions. They then go on the market (Auto Trader is used commonly) and search for vehicles in the same category condition and base your vehicles value on that value. They then retain the salvage. I know however that if you choose to keep your salvage title, they take the market value of the car and subtract with the salvage value and that's the money you get along with keeping your car. The main point of giving you market value is so that you can go out and buy the same exact car in the same condition as your vehicle was prior to the loss. In conclusion, there are some fair companies out there. It's the consumers sometimes that keep trying to take more because they see a no fault auto accident as a way to make money. If you think you are being low balled by the insurance company than you may invoke the policy section where disagreements about settlement value can result in an independent appraisal/mediation. You will have to pay half of the fee for this, though.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Ford Taurus, Ford Ranger
What are causes for no-heat problems in a Ford Taurus - blowing cold or lukewarm air only?
These are common causes of 'no-heat' when the coolant is flowing: Blocked / plugged heater core To check - confirm that both heater hoses going into the firewall are warm. If only one is warm, likely there is a blockage and the core will have to be flushed and/or replaced. Temperature blend door is stuck in the cold air position The door itself is binding and not able to pivot. The blend door actuator has failed - see "Related Links" below for the Autozone.com online repair guide to replacing the blend door actuator / motor. It's only about $15. Water pump - (see way down below) The water pump kind of self destructs on the inside without leaking out the weep hole. The fins just fall apart and you lose heat for your heater and the engine will overheat too. If your Taurus is only blowing cold air: Check the level of your anti-freeze, and make sure that its level is normal..... 1. Open the front hood.... 2. Look at the anti-freeze storage tank (white plastic tank on the left side of the engine compartment as you face the front of the car). Check to see where the level is and make sure that it is in the recommended temp zone of Hot or Cold. 3. If the anti-freeze level is in the recommended zone, then the thermostat might be shut closed and not letting the fluid flow freely to the engine. If this is the case, the thermostat has to be replaced. But if the thermostat is stuck, the engine will be overheating anyway, and you'd see the temperature gauge on the dashboard getting up to a dangerous level. More input from WikiAnswers contributors: I just bought a 99 Sable and was told by the seller that the heater core needed to be replaced. The cost being $500. My beloved mechanic that I have brought my 97 Status to for the last few years said that the core didn't need to be replaced, the core was so clogged that they had to flush it twice, which saved me $350. Unless you absolutely trust your mechanic like I do... $350 difference.. We were both expecting a replacement... ask for the heater core to be flushed before jumping to a replacement. Always check for clogs. Check how high the temp gauge goes. if it doesn't go above 1/3 of the gauge, change the thermostat or check the tap unit on the firewall. If the engine comes up to proper temperature: - The heater core might be plugged. Pull the 2 hoses off the heater core on the firewall, then take a garden hose and flush all the muck out of the heater core, and you might then have heat. - The blend air door might not be opening all the way. Check under the hood near the blower motor--there is a vacuum line there, check to see if it's getting vacuum. If you flush the heater core and rust comes out, this is usually the water pump's impellers/fins/blades having rusted and broken up, so you should replace the water pump too or the heater core may become clogged again. For some reason, many water pumps are made of a metal that rusts (it's about the only metal that rusts in the entire cooling system), though you may be able to find replacement water pumps that don't have rustable impellers. It could be a bad temp blend door actuator, or I have see a lot of those getting rust in the cooling system and clogging up the heater core. I'm assuming it did this before you changed the thermostat too. If not, maybe you installed the thermostat upside down. If all is well I'd suspect your heater control valve. As I recall it's vacuum operated so check the vacuum line for cracks/breaks. etc. You might wanna think about replacing your heater core. I've had this in the past and it meant the heater core died. After replacing it, it worked just fine. It can die without blowing anti-freeze foul smelling smoke everywhere. That just means it cracked. i get warm air, but LOTS of smoke lol. It could also be that your water is not circulating right. Have you checked your water level? If you do not have a full radiator, it will NOT blow hot air. I've had many problems with cars in my life. Any more questions on Taurus/Sable, feel free to ask me. First, flushing heater cores rarely works. The passages are too small. We just replace them. Further, even if you do flush out the core, if you don't flush out the rest of the system, the core gets stopped back up the first time you start the engine up again. Another possibility is that, if the system is or was rusty, the impellers could be rusted off the back of the water pump, and you have insufficient coolant circulation. We see a lot of that here. Another thing that could be your problem, is that you have a temp blend door stuck or the motor that runs the temp blend door is faulty. The dash has to be removed to access either of those two things. Are you saying the blower motor does not work? If so, then the blower motor, fan switch, temperature blend door, or the resistor pack is bad, or a fuse is blown. If you have checked the temperature of the heater hoses and it appears that heat is being delivered to the core, the problem is most likely with the air flow through the core, not the core itself. The air flow is controlled by the temperature blend door, and this door has a history of failure on the Taurus and Sable. Replacing the door is a fairly involved process and expensive at the dealer. There is a DIY system from HeaterTreater that will help you with the diagnostics and fix. Check HeaterTreater.net for pictures and information. We have a video posted in the Tech section that will show you how to disassemble the center dash console and check for blend door problems. It is a common failure on the Taurus/Sable for this door to break and fall to the bottom of the box, blocking heat. The HeaterTreater is an innovative method to extract the old door and replace it with a metal door that will not break again. The advantage is that it is not necessary to remove the dash and plenum box to do the fix. Full details are on the site. The video posted on the HeaterTreater web site in the TECH section will show you how to access and diagnose blend door problems without removing the dash panel. You do have to remove the center instrument console to get a good view of the plenum box. The hardest part is pulling the radio. It requires a special tool to release the catches on both sides of the radio. You can purchase the tool at any auto parts store or make your own out of a piece of heavy wire bent into a U shape. Or...find your local car thief, they can pull one in seconds!!! The other thing you want to be sure of is that there is no air trapped in the coolant system. On a cold engine remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. If air is trapped in the system, it will affect engine cooling efficiency and the HVAC system. You may have a stuck temp blend door in the heater case or the motor that runs it may be faulty. To access either of those items, the dash needs to be removed. The heater core could be clogged, that's what happened on our '98 Taurus SE. Also check the coolant levels and see if it needs to be flushed or topped off. Various cars have various ways of making hot and cold air. Most everyone uses a set of air vanes to switch between hot and cold. Some cars keep the A/C on in the defrost setting. Bottom line here is that it sounds like your A/C clutch is not turning off and the cold air is outdoing the warm air. On mine, the heat stopped working and I replaced the thermostat and the heater core was replaced, and it turned out that it was the water pump. Try replacing that. It worked on mine. I even went as far as replacing the radio console. The first place I would look is the heater core. My own experience tells me that yours might be clogged. If you have hot water going in and coming out of it but no warm air flow, then I would start there. Until you confirm whether or not the core is clogged then you are wasting time and effort trying to solve this one. The good news is that it might open up with an acid flush. I tried that with my Taurus and had some success with it. I did eventually have the core replaced. They are aluminum and hate it when you have an open cooling system (mine was open due to a cracked reservoir that I didn't know about). Corrosion and mineral deposits get in there and kill the coolant flow. This is why using distilled water for your antifreeze/water mix is preferred over tap water. I hope this puts you on the right path to solve this one. What both of your problems probably are is a clogged heater core, it happened to me and upon investigating I found out it was ridiculously common for that make and year range of Taurus to get its heater core clogged up with rust. Ford even put in a bypass on the heater system so that the whole cooling system wouldn't get clogged. What you want to do is let the car run, then locate the two hoses that go into the top middle of the firewall, just below the windshield--most likely one will be hot, which would be the input to the heater core, and the other cold, the heater core's output. If both are cold, it may be because the core is clogged. I have a 97 Taurus GL Wagon that has the same symptoms. I have been searching for the solution for a few days now and hope we can figure this out soon or my wife will not be too happy. Is it possible that the vacuum lines that control the heater are not working? When I replaced my stereo 3 years ago I remember that all the controls were vacuum lines. However I am not sure where they get the vacuum from. When I change the settings it seems to make the same noise as always. it sometimes will start heating then quit after a while or when you turn off the car then turn it back on. Is this also something new to Ford's Taurus or maybe I find it strange that so many people have the same problem but I have not seen the answer online anwhere yet. I have solved a few problems online and hope this one is the same. Good luck and I will keep hunting for an answer. I will check back to see if we can figure this out. No heat can also be caused by blown engine head gaskets. This messes with coolant flow through the system, preventing enough coolant from flowing through the heater core. But if one or both of your head gaskets are blown, your car will have other symptoms, such as smoke coming from the tailpipe (oil mixing with the water), overheating, etc. There's a door under the dash that directs air over the heater core. If it is broken then you will not get heat but you will still have A/C. To fix it you will have to take the dash apart. Check heater blower fuse and blower motor; coolant level; heater hose from radiator to heater core, and from heater core to water pump, for water shutoff both hoses should get warm with engine running and temp selector on hot. I have a 2001 Ford Taurus and have the same problem. When I consulted a Ford dealership they ask me if the coolant was brown and yes indeed the water looked more like mud water than the usual green anti-freeze. They told me that it is very common for the Taurus heater core to get blocked and that was more than likely what was going on. I flushed the system with no results because the heater core involves removing the dash to access, and the dealer book shows that job in the 6 hour range. I'm going to try all other options before I replace the heater core but that might be the only solution, besides winter is coming soon. Taurus heater cores are well-known for clogging - especially if something along the lines of "stop-leak" was ever poured in the radiator, or the radiator has not been serviced regularly. One solution is to flush the heater core - this can be done by disconnecting the heater core hoses at the firewall and simply flushing it with a garden hose and nozzle. However, you should also do a more complete flush, which would include the engine too, since there may be rust in its coolant passages too, which may re-clog the heater core if you don't clean it out. Otherwise take it to a shop and have this done. Your heater core is probably clogged. To fix this remove both hoses that go to the heater core, they would look similar to radiator hoses, but smaller diameter. Then run water through both ways until the water runs through clean. That may fix your problem. If there is no air at all blowing, then check the fuse for the heating. If the fuse is good, replace the blower motor. If there is air, just no heat, replace the heater core. You will find the core on the passenger side of the dash panel. Either there is a vacuum leak going to the Heater Control Valve, or the heater core is blocked, or heater hoses blocked, or NO thermostat or it's stuck open. OR the mixer/blend door actuator is bad or disconnected. The cooling system is pretty straightforward in how it works, so it is possible that the 'wire' that links the 'temperature-control' on the dash board to the 'interior heater unit' broke or became disconnected (at one end or the other) while last being in the 'Cold' position. Does the 'temperature control' knob or handle for the temperature seem easier to move than previously? That may be an indication of that situation just described. This isn't usually a quick fix item as, unless you can locate both ends of the controlling wire, you'll have to get into the dashboard or floor board to fix it. The floor board may be your starting spot as it may be more accessible. Second thought is that your internal heater has become plugged up significantly. That could have to be due to adding over-the-counter 'STOP-LEAK' type chemicals to the cooling system, but this is a somewhat 'remote' probability. However, if you haven't done a coolant flush since the car was built in 1999, there could be rust and other build up within the coolant system to certainly at least restrict the flow of coolant to the heater. However, if you haven't noticed a gradual loss of heating over the years, my bet is on the control linkage I spoke of. Good Luck. The thermostat may be stuck and need replacing. Also, this is pretty rare, but if the car is older, and the coolant has not been changed per specs, sometimes the vanes in the water pump may corrode and fall off. That causes a reduced coolant flow and can get expensive real quick Replacing the water pump is something the do-it-yourselfer can usually do, unless you want to keep a dealer service dept happy. But replacing the water pump is probably the last thing to try, though even if it appears unnecessary, it may be worth it in the long run if the water pump has 100,000 or more miles on it, since it will need to be replaced soon anyway. We own a 1997 Taurus GL Sedan and have had our own issues with the heater. Based on that, here is what you are most likely looking at: a clogged heater core. The good news is that you might get lucky and have it cured by doing an acid flush of the cooling system. The bad news is you may have to have the heater core replaced. That is an expensive fix as most of the cost is in labor to having to disassemble the dash and firewall to get to the core itself. If you know any mechanics, you are in luck. Hopefully one whose life you saved and he owes you big time. I don't know if I would call this a do-it-yourself job, it may depend on your skill level under the hood. I bit the bullet and had my local dealer do the core swap for me. Final damage: $2160.86 I am also trying to solve no heat issue in 99 Sable. New water pump, thermostat, heater core, replaced corroded steel lines leading to core. No heat still. Just wanted to let you all know, the heater core job can be done in 2 hours or less if you check out on google video, search heater core shortcut. The vehicle shown is a Taurus, but twin of the Sable. I actually did as he shows in video and it sure was easier than the water pump job. I did find that to pull the core it helps to push the inlet pipes from inside the engine compartment to pop the seal on the rubber grommets holding them in place, then allowing you to actually pull on the no longer recessed core from the inside of the car. Other Ideas & a water pump culprit: It could be a lot really. Heater core stopped up? Have you checked the thermostat? If your Taurus - Sable has 150,000 or more miles on it, you may need a water pump. They wear out. They have fins on them and I have a 2000 Taurus and was what was wrong with mine. The water pump kind of self-destructs on the inside without leaking out the weep hole. The fins just fall apart and you lose heat for your heater and the engine will overheat too. Please refer to the related questions for more information.
What are some cars that begin with the letter M?
Makers Car brands starting with M: Mclaren, Mazda, Mercedes, BMC's Mini, Maserati, Mitsubushi, Mercury, Messerschmitt, MG, Morris, Merkur, Marcos, Morgan, and Mathys. (*also the German brand Maybach, from the company Maybach-Motorenbau, and Mahindra & Mahindra of India) Models starting with M include: Magnum (Dodge) Malibu (Chevrolet) Mangusta (DeTomaso) Mantula (Marcos) Marauder (African company) Mark IV (Lincoln) Mark V (Lincoln) Marquis (Mercury, also Grand Marquis) Matador (AMC) Matrix (Toyota) Maxima (Nissan) Maverick (Ford) Medallion (Renault Eagle) Mehran (Suzuki) Metro (Geo) Miata (Toyota) Midget (MG) Milan (Mercury) Milano (Alfa Romeo) Millenia (Mazda) Mirada (Dodge) Mirage (Mitsubishi) Modena (Ferrari) Monaco (Mercury) Mondeo (Ford) Mondial (Ferrari) Montana (Pontiac minivan) Monte Carlo (Chevrolet) Montero (Mercury) Monterey (Mercury) Monza (Chevrolet) Morris Minor (BMC) Mountaineer (Jeep) Mulsanne (Bentley) Murano (Nissan) Murcielago (Lamborghini) Mustang (Ford) Mystique (Mercury) *A fake model used in a 2011 Subaru commercial was the 2011 Mediocrity.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Auto Loans and Financing
Is there a way to trade in your car if you are upside-down on the car loan?
Yes, but the money you still owe (negative equity) must still be paid. Example: you owe $10k on a car and the dealer will only offer you $8k in trade - the $2k difference must be paid. In some cases, your lender or dealer financing will allow you to roll the negative equity into the new payment as long as the loan to value (LTV) does not exceed a certain percentage. Therefore, it is difficult to get into a less expensive vehicle because of the LTV threshold. Dealer advertisements claiming to pay off your trade are simply doing as described above, and this can be dangerous for those with eyes bigger than their wallets.
Asked by Alek Batz in Cars & Vehicles, Fuel and Engines
How far can you drive your vehicle after the low fuel light comes on?
How far you can drive “on empty,” or when the low fuel light illuminates, is typically somewhere between 25 and 108 miles, according to a chart from car repair and maintenance company YourMechanic. The chart looks at the top 50 selling vehicles in the U.S. in 2015, and for each of them, it details how much fuel is left when the gas light goes on and roughly how many miles you can drive without running totally dry. How far your fumes will take you depends on several factors, including your driving habits, the road conditions, and what type of car you have. It’s important to note that although sometimes driving on empty is a necessity, it should not be made a habit, as it can do serious damage to your vehicle by sending debris that rest near the bottom of the tank up through the fuel pump.
Asked in Cars & Vehicles, Repossession
In California how can you find out what happened to an impounded car?
Call DCA's Consumer Information Center toll-free at 1-800-952-5210. In the Sacramento area call (916) 445-1254. ag.ca.gov they can tell you what the requirements are for towing impounds. If you want to know what happened to the car, just call the police department that had it picked up and I'm pretty sure they'll let you know, but only if you're the legal owner.